FLOOR FINISHES - for Timber and Cork
A polyurethane varnish became the standard finish for timber
and cork flooring over the last 30 years in Australia due to its hardwearing easy-care properties. However, research in the past 10 years
has raised major concerns over the toxicity of the chemicals in these
two-pack and one-pack solvent borne polyurethane finishes. The solvents,
and in particular toluene diisocyanate or TDI have been shown to cause asthma, dermatitis, lung disease, cancer,
and nerve and brain damage. Thus solvent borne polyurethane finishes
have now been banned in Europe (though still used in Australia) and we have
seen the development of new water-based polyurethane finishes which do not
contain these toxic solvents or isocyanates. Whilst these were initially
not as hard wearing as a solvent based polyurethane the best of these are
now equally as hard wearing. If you are wishing to use a polyurethane finish
make sure it is one of the new waterbased non-toxic polyurethane finishes.
The alternative non-toxic eco friendly finish for
timber or cork flooring is a natural oil finish. Traditionally made
from linseed oil or tung oil, these were the finishes used before polyurethanes were invented, and
have remained in use by people wishing to avoid synthetic chemicals in their home
or by those who simply prefer the look and feel of natural polished timber
rather than a synthetic film on the floor.
A natural oil finish impregnates the timber and hardens within it making
it waterproof and durable yet allowing it to breathe naturally. It also brings
out the deep rich beauty of all timber and has a non-reflective satin sheen,
which differs from the glassy reflective shine of a film forming polyurethane finish.
Many wood sculptors and fine furniture makers use an oil finish because of the beauty of the
finish.
Oil finishes need to be renewed more often than a polyurethane finish.
This however is simply a matter of rubbing in another thin coat of the same oil when it starts to
dry out (every 2 - 5 years depending on the use). It will never peel or wear through like a film forming
finish and hence never requires sanding or stripping when renewing. Spot repairing of
scratches or small worn areas is also possible in the same way.
Painted Earth has chosen three natural oil finishes which give beautiful
and durable results and one waterbased polyurethane that is extremely hard
wearing. All are possible to apply yourself or you can ask your floorsander to apply them.
You can order these products online at the end of each description, or by phoning Deb on 02 6680 5729. Payment can be made by direct transfer, credit card over the phone,
or by posting a cheque or money order.
Ardvos Wood Oil
Made primarily from cold pressed organic flaxseed oil, tree resins and wax, and containing a non-hazardous solvent and drying
agent. Ardvos is the most popular natural oil finish sold in Australia
over the past 20 years. It is applied professionally in Melbourne by Anro Floorcare
and made in Germany by Livos.
Suitable for interior timber and cork flooring
including kitchens and bathrooms, in domestic and some commercial situations.
Also suitable for interior wood paneling, stairs, furniture, and all wood trim.
Appearance is a transparent satin sheen and a deep rich colour highlighting of the grain
and beauty of the timber.
Colour of the oil is a light honey tone.
Odour is a mild linseed smell that dissipates after a few weeks
Flexibility is good. It allows the timber to breath and move and will not cause edge bonding.
Durability is good. The oil and resin mixture
impregnates the timber and hardens within it making it water resistant, durable,
and resistant to most stains. Similar to a polyuethane finish it takes 4 - 6 weeks to attain its full hardeness
so it should be treated gently in this initial period.
Cleaning and maintenence. During the first 6 weeks
while the oil and resin layer is still curing to its full hardness it is best to avoid water on the floor.
After this period a damp mop with a little Trena, a ph neutral cleaner, in the water is all that is needed for cleaning.
Detergents, harsh cleaners and micro fiber mops can strip oil from the floor. Glanos wax can be added
to the mopping water periodically to increase the shine, and Latis
intensive cleaner can be used to shift any hard to move stains. As with any timber
floor it is advisable to sweep regulary, put mats at entrances to avoid dirt and grit being
tramped in, and to avoid scratching the floor when moving furniture about. If scratches do occur they can usually be remedied by a light sanding and massaging in some more oil.
Renewal. Areas that receive excessive wear such
as stairs and doorways will benefit by having a little more oil massaged in once a
year. This keeps the surface at its maximum stain resistance and durability.
It is usually sufficient then to renew the whole floor every 3 to 5 years (or when
it starts to look dry) by applying another thin coat of Ardvos.
Preparation is important for application of any
oil finish. The timber needs to be more finely sanded than for a polyurethane
finish because the oil is an impregnating finish rather than a film forming finish.
The final look and feel of the surface depends on this fine sanding.
Ideally the floor should be sanded gradually to at least 120, preferably 180 grit,
and then finished with screen meshing to 220 grit. To ensure no marks are left by the vacuum
cleaner, vacuum prior to the last screen mesh.
Linus Priming Oil can be used as the first
coat instead of Ardvos. This coat uses the most oil, and as Linus
is less expensive than Ardvos it can be more economical when doing large areas or if treating
highly absorbent timber. However Linus does have a slightly more amber colour
than Ardvos which may not be desirable on very light coloured timbers.
Application is with a paint brush or edging pad for the edges and small areas and a lambswool applicator for large areas. The oil needs
to be applied evenly, left to penetrate for 10 - 20 minutes and then wiped dry.
It is best to work in small maneagable areas to get the timing right for applying
and then wiping off the oil. This varies according to the weather conditions and the thickness of the coat.
If not left on long enough it will not be a good protective coat. If left on
too long it will become tacky and hard to wipe off. (though this can be remedied by
applying more oil to soften it and then wiping dry).
A large squeeqee is helpful to move most of the excess oil forward for re-use
on the next area after the penetration time of 10 - 20 mins.
A large number of clean lint free cloths will be needed to do the wiping
dry. On large areas a low speed sanding or polishing machine with old towels
fitted underneath can be used for this and thus save a lot of hand wiping.
The floor is then left to dry overnight before applying the next coat.
Coats needed is three. The first coat is the main
saturating coat and takes almost three times as much oil as the next two coats
combined. The second coat takes less and the third is a very thin coat massaged in
and wiped dry after 5 - 10 mins. The final two coats build up the protective surface layer.
Drying time is 16 - 24 hrs between coats.
Then ideally two days before walking on the floor. The oil needs good airflow
and warmth to dry and harden so keep windows and doors open wherever possible
and in cold or damp weather heaters can aid the curing process.
Coverage for the first coat is about 20sq.m/litre.
For the second coat about 80 sq.m/litre, and the third coat about 250sq.m/litre.
This of course varies a little according to the absorbancy of the wood and the skill of the application. It is best to purchase a little extra oil than you think you will need
rather than run short. Any left over oil can be transfered to a smaller container and kept
for renewal in the first year or two.
Clean-up is with Svalos thinners. This is a non toxic alternative to turps
and it is good to purchase a litre with your oil, to have on hand for cleaning brushes, paint pads, and hands, or to thin the oil if necessary.
Storage of left over oil is good. Just transfer it to a small
container that excludes as much air as possible. It is in fact desirable to have a little oil
left over to use for renewal or repair of areas that may become worn or sctratched.
Safety Note. Oily clothes, application pads or brushes should be
treated with care as there is a danger of spontaneous combustion caused by the linseed oil
heating up as it dries. If storing overnight application pads and paint brushes can be
placed in an airtight container, wrapped well in plastic, or immersed in the tin of oil. Oily cloths should be disposed of as below.
Disposal of oily cloths and application pads should be treated
with care because of the above safety note on combustion. They should be either hung out
to dry or imersed in water before being diposed of with household rubbish.
sizes |
price |
sufficient
for 3 coats on |
cost/sq.m 3 coats |
50ml sample |
$10 |
.5 sq.m |
|
250ml |
$26 |
3 sq.m |
$8.70 |
750ml |
$53 |
9 sq.m |
$5.90 |
2.5L |
$140 |
30 sq.m |
$4.70 |
5L |
$250 |
55 sq.m |
$4.50 |
10L |
$455 |
110 sq.m |
$4.20 |
Buy Ardvos Wood Oil
For help with online buying see How it works
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Kunos Oil Sealer
Kunos is similar to Ardvos but has a higher amount of resin content. This means it forms
more of a surface film than Ardvos and is slightly more shiny and waterproof. It is also available in several light stain colours. It is applied
professionally in Melbourne by Anro Floorcare
and made in Germany by Livos.
Suitable for interior timber flooring including kitchens and bathrooms in domestic and some commercial situations.
Especially suited to Blackbutt, Brushbox, Ironbark and Jarrah. Also suitable for
benchtops, interior wood paneling, stairs, wood trim, fine furniture and wood sculptures and turnings.
Appearance is a transparent gloss sheen and a deep rich colour highlighting of the grain
and beauty of the timber. A very beautiful finish used by fine furniture makers and wood sculptors. Stain colours give a light even tone colour.
Colour of the clear oil is a light honey tone. Stain colours are mahogany,
smoked oak, walnut, dark walnut, rosewood and white. White can be used as the first coat to maintain
the natural colour on light coloured timbers. A Kunos colour chart can be ordered for $2 including postage.
Request a Kunos colour chart
Odour is a mild linseed smell that dissipates after a few weeks
Flexibility is good. It allows the timber to breath and move and will not cause edge bonding.
Durability is very good. The oil and resin mixture
impregnates the timber and hardens within it making it waterproof and durable and
resistant to most stains. It does however take 4 - 6 weeks to attain it's full hardeness
so it should be treated gently in this initial period.
Cleaning and maintenence. During the first 6 weeks
while the oil and resin layer is still curing to its final hardness it is best to avoid water on the floor.
After this period a damp mop with a little Trena, a ph neutral cleaner, in the water is all that is needed.
Detergents, harsh cleaners and micro fiber mops can strip the oil from the floor. Glanos wax can be added
to the mopping water periodically to increase the shine, and Latis
intensive cleaner can be used to shift any hard to move stains. As with any timber
floor it is advisable to sweep regulary, put mats at entrances to avoid dirt and grit being
tramped in, and to avoid scratching the floor when moving furniture about. If scratches do occur they can usually be remedied by a light sanding and massaging in some more oil.
Renewal. Areas that receive excessive wear such
as stairs and doorways will benefit by having more oil massaged in once a
year. This keeps the surface at its maximum stain resistance and durability.
It is usually sufficient then to renew the whole floor every 4 to 6 years (or when
it starts to look dry) by applying another thin coat of Kunos.
Preparation is important for application of any
oil finish. The timber needs to be more finely sanded than for a polyurethane
finish because the oil is an impregnating finish rather than a film forming finish.
The final look and feel of the surface depends on this fine sanding.
Ideally the floor should be sanded gradually to at least 120, preferably 180 grit,
and then finished with gradual screen meshing to 220 grit. To ensure no marks are left by the vacuum
cleaner, vacuum prior to the last screen mesh.
Linus Priming Oil can be used as the first
coat instead of Kunos. This coat uses the most oil, and as Linus
is cheaper than Kunos it can be more economical when doing large areas or
if treating highly absorbent timber. However Linus does have a slightly more
amber colour than Kunos which may not be desirable on light coloured timbers.
Application is similar to Ardvos but Kunos requires buffing between coats to acheive the extra shine. This is done with
a white pad under a low speed sander or polishing machine.
Apply with a paint brush or edging pad for the edges and small areas and a lambswool applicator for large areas. The oil needs
to be applied evenly, left to penetrate for 10 - 20 minutes and then wiped dry.
It is best to work in small maneagable areas to get the timing right for applying
and then wiping off the oil. This varies according to the weather conditions and the thickness of the coat.
If not left on long enough it will not be a good protective coat. If left on
too long it will become tacky and hard to wipe off. (this can be remedied though by
applying more oil to soften it and then wiping dry).
A large squeeqee is helpful to move most of the excess oil forward for re-use
on the next area after the penetration time of 10 - 20 mins.
A large number of clean lint free cloths will be needed to do the wiping
dry. On large areas a low speed sander or polishing machine with old towels
fitted underneath can be used for this and thus save a lot of hand wiping.
After each coat has dried for 16 - 24 hrs buff it using a white pad under a polishing machine.
This flattens the fine crystaline structure of the resin and creates a very smooth shiny surface. The next coat can now be applied.
The second coat should be applied more sparingly and any excess wiped dry as for the first coat.
The third coat however should NOT be wiped dry. Simply apply very thinly ( about 3/4 tspn per sq M) and allow
to dry 24 hrs, then buff as for the first two coats.
Coats needed is three. The first coat is the main saturating coat and takes almost four times as much oil as the
next two coats combined. The second should take only 1/4 of the amount and the third is a very
thin coat, about 3/4 teaspoon per square meter, massaged in and left to dry without wiping.
Drying time is 12 - 24 hrs between coats, then ideally 1 - 2 days
before walking on the floor. The oil needs good airflow and warmth to dry so keep windows and
doors open wherever possible, and in cold or damp weather heaters can aid the curing process.
Coverage for the first coat is about
22sq.m/litre. For the second coat about 80 sq.m/litre, and the third coat
about 250sq.m/litre.
This of course varies a little according to the absorbancy of the wood
and the skill of the application. It is best to purchase a little extra oil
than you think you will need
rather than run short. Any left over can be transfered to a smaller container
and kept for renewal in the first year or two.
Clean-up is with Svalos thinners. This is a non toxic alternative to turps
and it is good to purchase a litre with your oil to have on hand for cleaning brushes, paint pads, and hands, or to thin the oil if necessary.
Storage of left over oil is good. Just transfer
it to a small container that excludes as much air as possible. It is in
fact desirable to have a little oil
left over to use for renewal or repair of areas that may become worn or sctratched.
Safety Note Oily clothes, application pads
or brushes should be treated with care as there is a danger of spontaneous
combustion caused by the linseed oil
heating up as it dries. If storing overnight application pads and paint
brushes can be placed in an airtight container, wrapped well in plastic, or immersed in the tin of oil. Oily cloths should be disposed of as below.
Disposal of oily cloths and application pads
should be treated with care because of the above safety note on combustion.
They should be either hung out
to dry or imersed in water before being diposed of with household rubbish.
sizes |
price |
sufficient
for 3 coats on |
cost/sq.m 3 coats |
50ml sample |
$10 |
.8 sq.m |
|
250ml |
$34 |
5 sq.m |
$6.80 |
750ml |
$71 |
13 sq.m |
$5.50 |
2.5L |
$190 |
40 sq.m |
$4.80 |
5L |
$316 |
85 sq.m |
$3.70 |
10L |
$626 |
170 sq.m |
$3.70 |
Buy Kunos Oil Sealer
For help with online buying see How it works
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Linus Priming Oil
Made from cold pressed organic flaxseed oil plus a non-hazardous drying
agent. Linus can be used as the first coat instead of Ardvos or Kunos. It is used
professionally in Melbourne by Anro Floorcare
and made in Germany by Livos.
Suitable for priming interior timber, cork or stone flooring. Also suitable for priming of interior and exterior
timbers before further treatment with Livos oils. May not be suitable for
very light coloured timbers due to its amber tone. Not suitable for parquet flooring,
and fruit tree woods. Not suitable for use inside cupboards due to it's slow
drying.
Appearance Enhances the rich colour
and grain of wood and has a matt appearance.
Colour is a light amber tone.
Odour is a mild linseed smell that dissipates after
a few weeks if allowed to dry fully.
Flexibility is good. It allows the timber to breath and move and will not cause edge bonding.
Durability is good. Linus penetrates deeply and
strengthens the timber.
Preparation is the same as for Ardvos or Kunos above.
Application is with a lambswool applicator,
and a paint brush or edging pad for edges and small areas. The oil needs
to be applied evenly, left to penetrate for 20 - 30 minutes ( it is slower drying than Ardvos or Kunis) and then wiped dry.
It is best to work in small maneagable areas to get the timing right for
applying and then wiping off the oil. If not left on long enough it will not
be a good protective coat. If left on
too long it will become tacky and hard to wipe off. (this can be remedied
by applying more oil to soften it and then wiping dry).
A large squeeqee is helpful to move most of the excess oil forward for re-use
on the next area after the penetration time of 20 - 30 mins.
A large number of clean lint free cloths will be needed to do the wiping
dry. On large areas a low speed sanding or polishing machine with old towels
fitted underneath can be used for this and thus save a lot of hand wiping.
It is then left to dry for 24 - 48 hrs before applying Ardvos or Kunos as the finishing coats.
Finish with two coats of Ardvos Wood Oil or Kunos Oil Sealer
Drying time is 24 - 48 hrs. It is a slower drying than Ardvos or Kunos.
In warm weather and good airflow it should dry in 24 hrs. In colder weather it may take 48 hrs.
Coverage is about 12 - 18 sq.m/litre depending on the absobency of the wood.
Clean-up is with Svalos thinners.
Storage of left over oil is good. Just transfer it to a small
container that excludes as much air as possible. It can be used as a general priming or nourishing oil for timber or stone.
Safety Note Oily clothes, application pads or brushes should be
treated with care as there is a danger of spontaneous combustion caused by the linseed oil
heating up as it dries. If storing overnight application pads and paint brushes can be
placed in an airtight container, wrapped well in plastic, or immersed in the tin of oil. Oily cloths should be disposed of as below.
Disposal of oily cloths and application pads should be treated
with care because of the above safety note on combustion. They should be either hung out
to dry or imersed in water before being diposed of with household rubbish.
sizes |
price |
1 coat covers |
cost/sq.m 1 coat |
50ml sample |
$10 |
|
|
750ml |
$30 |
11 sq.m |
$2.70 |
2.5L |
$75 |
38 sq.m |
$2.00 |
5L |
$140 |
75 sq.m |
$1.90 |
10L |
$258 |
150 sq.m |
$1.70 |
Buy Linus Priming Oil
For help with online buying see How it works
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Volvox Hard Oil Wax
Volvox Hard Oil Wax is a mixture of linseed oil,
tung oil, and natural waxes. It is a new, totally solvent free oil finish from Europe made in response to increasing pressure to remove all solvents from finishes. It is thus a little thicker than Ardvos, Kunos or Linus and requires a slightly different method of application. It requires only two thin coats and gives a satin matt finish. It can also be waxed when dry for a higher sheen leven.
Suitable for interior timber and cork flooring
including kitchens and bathrooms, in domestic and some commercial situations.
Also suitable for interior wood paneling, stairs, furniture, and all wood trim. Particularly suitable for very chemically sensitive people due to it being totally solvent free. So far experience in Australia has shown that it may not give a good result on some high tannin timbers such as Brushbox and Blackbutt. This may have been due to the timber not being properly dried first, however I would suggest doing a test on all timbers before applying it to a full floor. The poor result seemed to be due to the Hard Oil Wax not saturating the timber well enough and consequently water penetrating through to the timber and interacting with the tannins producing a slight water stain.
Appearance is a soft, transparent satin-matt sheen and a deep rich colour, highlighting the grain
and beauty of the timber. It can be waxed if more sheen is required.
Colour of the oil is a light honey tone.
Odour is a mild linseed and wax smell that dissipates after a few days.
Flexibility is good. It allows the timber to breath and move and will not cause edge bonding.
Durability is medium. The oil and wax mixture
impregnates the timber and hardens within it making it water resistant, durable
and resistant to most stains. It does however take 2 - 4 weeks to attain this full hardeness
so it should be treated gently in this initial period.
Cleaning and maintenence. During the first 4 weeks
while the oil and wax layer is still curing to its final hardness it is best to avoid water on the floor.
After this period a damp mop with a little Wood Soap in the water is all that is needed.
Detergents, harsh cleaners and micro fiber mops can strip the oil from the floor. Volvox wax can be added
to the mopping water periodically to increase the shine, and Volvox Floor Renovator can be used to replenish the oil wax layer if it starts to dry out. As with any timber
floor it is advisable to sweep regulary, put mats at entrances to avoid dirt and grit being
tramped in, and to avoid scratching the floor when moving furniture about. If scratches do occur they can usually be remedied by a light sanding and massaging in some more oil.
Renewal. Areas that receive excessive wear such
as stairs and doorways will benefit by having a little more oil massaged in once a
year. This keeps the surface at its maximum stain resistance and durability.
It is usually sufficient then to renew the whole floor every 2 to 4 years (or when
it starts to look dry) by applying another thin coat of Hard Oil Wax.
Preparation is important for application of any
oil finish. The timber needs to be more finely sanded than for a polyurethane
finish because the oil is an impregnating finish rather than a film forming finish.
The final look and feel of the surface depends on this fine sanding.
Ideally the floor should be sanded gradually to at least 120, preferably 180 grit,
and then finished with screen meshing to 220 grit. To ensure no marks are left by the vacuum
cleaner, vacuum prior to the last screen mesh.
Linus Priming Oil can be used as a priming coat beneath the Hard Oil Wax Finish. This will give more protection if in doubt about the durability of the Hard Oil Wax Finish. However Linus does have a slightly amber colour
which may not be desirable on very light coloured timbers.
Application is with a stainless steel or plastic, trowel or scraper,
and an edging pad for the edges and small areas. Stir well first so that the thick oil becomes more fluid, then spread it evenly and sparingly acrosss the surface using the paint pad for edges and the blade of the trowel or scraper to spread it across the middle.
Leave to penetrate for 5 - 10 minutes and then burnish into the floor using a red pad under a burnishing machine till you get an even look without any oil left on the surface. It is best to work in small maneagable areas to get the timing right for applying
and then burnishing in the oil. This varies according to the weather conditions, the absortion of the timber, and your application technique.
If not left on long enough it will not be a good protective coat. If left on
too long it will become tacky and hard to burnish. Wipe any unabsorbed oil off with a clean lint free cloth.
The floor is then left to dry overnight before applying the second coat.
Coats needed is two. Both coats should be thin coats , about a tablespn per square meter. The timber will not be able to absorb more than this amount.
Drying time is 6 - 12 hrs between coats.
Then ideally one day before walking on the floor. The oil needs good airflow
and warmth to dry and harden so keep windows and doors open wherever possible
and in cold or damp weather heaters can aid the curing process.
Waxing is possible after the final coat is dry or at any later stage if more shine is desired. This is easily done with Volvox Liquid Wax. A thin wax than is spread with a damp mop and left to dry.
Coverage for each coat is about 40 - 50 sq.m/litre.
This of course varies a little according to the absorbancy of the wood and the skill of the application. It is best to purchase a little extra Hard Oil Wax than you think you will need
rather than run short. Any left over oil can be transfered to a smaller container and kept
for renewal in the first year or two.
Clean-up is with Svalos thinners. This is a non toxic alternative to turps
and it is good to purchase a litre with your oil, to have on hand for cleaning brushes, paint pads, and hands, or to thin the oil if necessary.
Storage of left over oil is good. Just transfer it to a small
container that excludes as much air as possible. It is in fact desirable to have a little oil
left over to use for renewal or repair of areas that may become worn or sctratched.
Safety Note. Oily clothes, application pads or brushes should be
treated with care as there is a danger of spontaneous combustion caused by the linseed oil
heating up as it dries. If storing overnight application pads can be
placed in an airtight container, wrapped well in plastic, or immersed in the tin of oil. Oily cloths should be disposed of as below.
Disposal of oily cloths and application pads should be treated
with care because of the above safety note on combustion. They should be either hung out
to dry or imersed in water before being diposed of with household rubbish.
sizes |
price |
sufficient
for 2 coats on |
cost/sq.m 2 coats |
150ml sample |
$13 |
3 sq.m |
$4.30 |
750ml |
$62 |
15-18 sq.m |
$3.50 |
2.5L |
$195 |
50-60 sq.m |
$3.50 |
5L |
$385 |
110-120sq.m |
$3.35 |
10L |
$760 |
220-250 sq.m |
$3.20 |
Buy Volvox Hard Oil Wax
For help with online buying see How it works
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This website is currently under construction. For information on the products available please phone Deb on 02 6680 5729. thankyou